Fresh · Accord · Top notes, Heart notes, Base notes
Tea
Tea is a perfume accord that recreates the smell of tea leaves, from green to black to white tea. Green tea feels fresh and slightly astringent, while black tea is warmer, honeyed and sometimes smoky. In perfume, tea can appear in the top, heart or base notes.
· Written by the FRAG team
How green, black and white tea smell
Green tea in perfume smells fresh, grassy and slightly astringent, like wet tea leaves just after brewing. Black tea is darker: warm, a little honeyed and sometimes smoky. White tea is usually the thinnest and softest, with a faint floral feel.
Over time the green or smoky side of tea settles, leaving a soft impression with hints of powder and violet leaf. Tea in perfume rarely smells sweet like a sugared drink.
How is a tea note made?
All tea comes from the leaves of Camellia sinensis. A tea absolute can be extracted from dried leaves, but steam-distilled tea leaf oil smells more floral than tea-like. The familiar tea smell forms as the leaves are withered and oxidised, so most tea notes in perfume are accords built from synthetic molecules such as theaspirane, with a little natural material.
Indonesia is one of the world's tea producers, and about two thirds of its tea comes from West Java. Jasmine tea, called teh melati and made by scenting tea with jasmine flowers, is popular there too. So the pairing of tea and jasmine in perfume feels familiar to many Indonesians.
Tea in the top, heart or base?
Tea notes can appear in any layer. Green tea usually sits in the top or heart notes for a fresh, clear effect, while black tea more often sits in the heart or base for warmth. Tea also works as a bridge that keeps flowers light and stops them from turning too sweet.
Common partners are bergamot (as in Earl Grey tea), lemon, jasmine, osmanthus, ginger and mint. Green tea appears in many fresh perfumes, while black tea is more common in amber, woody or leather perfumes.
When to wear a tea perfume
A green or white tea perfume feels light and suits daytime, work and hot weather. A perfume with warm black tea fits late afternoon, evening or air-conditioned rooms.
