Floral · Natural material · Top notes, Heart notes, Base notes
Jasmine
Jasmine is a white flower of the genus Jasminum, known in Indonesia as melati, and perfume mainly uses Jasminum grandiflorum and Jasminum sambac. It smells sweet, rich and slightly fruity, with a warm, faintly animalic side. In perfume, jasmine usually sits in the heart notes as one of the core florals.
· Written by the FRAG team
What does jasmine smell like?
Jasmine smells sweet and rich, like a fresh jasmine garland at an Indonesian wedding. There is a fruity side, a thin green edge and a warm, faintly animalic side from indole, a compound found in white flowers. In small amounts, indole makes jasmine feel alive and close to the skin.
The two jasmines used in perfume smell different. Jasmine sambac, the melati putih familiar in Indonesia, is fruitier and less animalic. Jasmine grandiflorum is more balanced, slightly tea-like and warmer. On skin, jasmine arrives after the opening fades and fills the heart of the perfume.
Where does jasmine come from?
Jasminum sambac is melati putih, one of Indonesia's three national flowers along with the moon orchid and the giant padma, set by Presidential Decree No. 4 of 1993. In Java, jasmine garlands adorn a bride's hair, and the flowers are also used to scent jasmine tea.
Jasmine for perfume is solvent extracted, because the flowers are too delicate for steam distillation. The result is called jasmine absolute. Egypt grows most of the grandiflorum jasmine used by the world's perfume industry, while India is an important source of jasmine sambac.
How perfumers use jasmine
Jasmine usually sits in the heart notes as the centre of a floral perfume, though it can also appear lightly in the top or base. It gives a full, warm floral feel, and often forms part of a white flower accord with tuberose, orange blossom and ylang-ylang.
Rose and jasmine are a classic floral pairing. In modern perfumes, jasmine is often joined by hedione, a molecule with a light, bright jasmine effect. Sandalwood in the base makes jasmine softer and creamier and helps it settle close to the skin.
When to wear a jasmine perfume
A light jasmine with citrus suits daytime. A rich jasmine with sandalwood or amber fits evenings and formal events, weddings included. In hot, humid weather, go easy on the sprays, because jasmine can feel strong.
