Floral · Natural material · Heart notes
Osmanthus
Osmanthus is the small flower of Osmanthus fragrans, an Asian tree known in China as guihua. It smells like ripe apricot and peach, with a tea-like side and a soft hint of leather. In perfume, osmanthus usually sits in the heart notes and brings a fruity touch to floral blends.
· Written by the FRAG team
What does osmanthus smell like?
Osmanthus smells like ripe apricot or peach, sweet and soft. Behind the fruit there is a gentle leathery note, plus a little tea and powder. That mix of fruit, flower and leather makes osmanthus easy to recognise.
On skin, the fruity side of osmanthus is clearest at the start. Osmanthus then turns softer and warmer, like a freshly brewed flower tea.
Where does osmanthus come from?
Osmanthus fragrans is a shrub or small tree native to Asia, from the Himalayan foothills and China to Japan, Thailand and Vietnam. In China its flowers have long been used in tea, jam, cakes and drinks.
For perfume, Chinese osmanthus is made into an absolute. The flowers are harvested in autumn and wilt quickly, so some producers keep them in brine for a few weeks first. The flowers are then solvent-extracted into a concrete and washed with alcohol. It takes a great many flowers to make a little absolute, which makes osmanthus a costly material.
Osmanthus in perfume
Osmanthus usually sits in the heart notes. It gives a floral blend a natural fruity touch, and its leathery side makes a perfume feel more grown-up. Perfumers also use it to build yellow-fruit, tobacco or syrupy accords.
Common partners are peach, tea, rose and violet. Its leathery side also suits leather and wood notes. Osmanthus and violet share compounds from the ionone family, which add a powdery feel.
When to wear osmanthus
Osmanthus feels soft and its fruit is not too sweet, so it is comfortable for the office or a daytime outing. Blends with leather, woods or amber suit late afternoon and evening better. If you like flower-scented tea, an osmanthus perfume will likely feel familiar and easy to wear every day.
