Amber · Natural material · Top notes
Star anise
Star anise is the dried, star-shaped fruit of the Illicium verum tree, known in Indonesia as bunga lawang or pekak. It smells sweet, warm and spicy like aniseed or licorice, thanks to a molecule called anethole. In perfume, star anise usually sits in the top or heart and gives a sweet, spicy opening.
· Written by the FRAG team
What does star anise smell like?
Star anise smells sweet and warm, like aniseed or licorice candy, with a slightly peppery, resinous side. The scent comes through right away, then softens into a gentle, slightly powdery spice. For many Indonesians, it brings to mind slow-cooked dishes like semur or gulai made with bunga lawang.
Star anise is sweeter and rounder than clove or cinnamon. Because its sweetness comes built in, star anise can warm up a perfume without needing much sugar or vanilla.
Where star anise comes from
Star anise is the fruit of Illicium verum, a tree native to southern China and northeastern Vietnam. The fruit is picked just before it ripens and dried until brown, forming a star with one seed in each point. China is the main producer, followed by Vietnam and other Asian countries.
Star anise oil for perfume is steam distilled from the dried fruit. Most of the oil is anethole, the same molecule that gives aniseed and fennel their smell, even though star anise is not related to either plant.
Star anise in perfume
Star anise is usually placed in the top or heart notes. In the opening, star anise gives a sweet spice that registers immediately. Because it sits in the upper layers, it fades sooner than the woods and resins in the base and leaves a soft warmth behind.
In spicy blends, star anise usually joins cinnamon, clove, cardamom and nutmeg. In gourmand ones, its partner is vanilla. In aromatic perfumes, it also suits lavender, as both have a sweet, herbal side.
When to wear a perfume with star anise
Star anise feels warm and sweet, so perfumes with this note are nice in the late afternoon or evening, and in air-conditioned rooms. If star anise only appears in the opening alongside citrus or lavender, the perfume is still comfortable for daytime.
