Amber · Natural material · Top notes, Heart notes, Base notes
Saffron
Saffron is a spice made from the dried stigmas of the Crocus sativus flower, known in Indonesia as safron or kuma-kuma. It smells warm and slightly bitter, like honey, dry hay and leather, with a faintly metallic edge. In perfume, saffron can appear in any layer and is widely used in Middle Eastern style amber blends.
· Written by the FRAG team
What does saffron smell like?
Saffron smells warm and dry, like honey mixed with hay and leather. There is a slightly metallic, bitter side, so saffron rarely reads as plain sweetness. In perfume, saffron is often clearest at the start, then softens and blends into rose, woods or amber.
Saffron is easy to recognise in a perfume. Its leather and honey facets make a blend feel warm and dense, while the hay-like side keeps it from turning too sweet.
Where does saffron come from?
Saffron comes from Crocus sativus, a plant that flowers in autumn. The part used is the red stigma and style, picked by hand and then dried. Iran produces about 90 percent of the world's saffron, followed by Afghanistan.
The signature smell of saffron comes mainly from a molecule called safranal. Because natural saffron is very expensive, the saffron note in perfume is often built with synthetic molecules, such as Safraleine from Givaudan, which smells of spice, leather and tobacco.
The role of saffron in perfume
Saffron turns up in all three layers, from top to base. As a top note, saffron gives a warm spice that you notice quickly. In the heart and base, it melts into rose, oud and amber and adds a smooth leathery side.
Saffron's classic partners are rose and oud, a combination used in many Middle Eastern style perfumes. Saffron also pairs well with leather, amber, incense and cardamom. In gourmand perfumes, saffron sometimes appears with coffee or a burnt-sugar note.
When to wear a saffron perfume
Saffron with rose and musk is light enough for daytime in air-conditioned rooms. Saffron blends with oud, amber or leather are denser and suit evenings, events or cooler weather. In hot weather, go easy on the sprays, since saffron can come across strong.
