Fresh · Aroma molecule · Heart notes, Base notes
Musk
Musk is a group of perfume materials that smell soft, clean and warm, like skin, known in Indonesia as kesturi or misik. The musks in modern perfume are made synthetically. Musk almost always sits in the base notes, so it comes through most once the opening has faded.
· Written by the FRAG team
What does musk smell like?
Musk smells soft and clean, like skin after a shower or freshly washed clothes. Some musks are powdery, some warmer, and some so transparent that they are hard to smell on their own. White musk is the name for the clean, bright kind of musk that is also common in laundry products.
Musk usually stays close to the skin rather than filling the room. Some people find certain musks hard to smell. In one study, roughly 12 to 24 percent of participants could not smell Galaxolide, a synthetic musk. That is one reason two people can experience the same perfume differently.
From musk deer to synthetic musk
Musk was once taken from a gland of the male musk deer. Trade in this animal musk is now tightly controlled under CITES, and almost all musk in perfume today is synthetic.
The first synthetic musk was discovered by Albert Baur in 1888. Several groups followed: nitro musks, now widely restricted, polycyclic musks such as Galaxolide, macrocyclic musks that mirror the structure of natural musk, and alicyclic musks. Ambrette, a plant seed with a musk-like smell, is another source.
Musk in the base notes
Musk almost always sits in the base notes and sometimes in the heart. Because it evaporates slowly, musk helps the other notes blend and feel softer on skin. A great many perfumes contain musk, even when it is not on the note list. How long a perfume lasts still varies with your skin, the weather and the concentration.
Common partners are rose, iris and aldehydes for a clean effect, and vanilla, sandalwood and ambrette for warmth. Musk shows up in nearly every fragrance family, from fresh to gourmand.
When to wear a musk perfume
A perfume built around clean musk suits everyday wear, work and air-conditioned rooms, because it stays close to the skin and does not crowd others. Warmer musks paired with vanilla or woods fit late afternoon and evening.
