Fresh · Natural material · Base notes
Ambrette
Ambrette is a fragrant oil from the seeds of Abelmoschus moschatus, a relative of hibiscus known in Indonesia as kapasan. It smells like a soft, clean musk, with a hint of pear and wine. In perfume, ambrette usually sits in the base notes as a plant-based musk.
· Written by the FRAG team
What does ambrette smell like?
Ambrette smells like a gentle musk: warm, clean and close to the skin. It opens with a slight fruitiness, like overripe pear or wine, then slowly turns into a soft, slightly powdery skin scent.
Next to many synthetic musks, which smell very clean, ambrette feels more alive thanks to its fruity and floral sides. That is why perfumers often choose ambrette for a natural-feeling musk.
Where does ambrette come from?
Abelmoschus moschatus belongs to the mallow family (Malvaceae) and is native to Asia and Australia. Its small seeds smell like musk, which is where the name moschatus comes from. In Indonesia the plant is called kapasan or kakapasan, and its seeds are known as a source of musky oil.
Ambrette oil is made by steam distillation or CO2 extraction of dried, crushed seeds. The yield is small, so the oil is expensive. Ambrette seed oil was once widely used as a substitute for animal musk, before synthetic musks largely replaced it. Producers include India, Ecuador and Peru.
Ambrette in a perfume
Ambrette almost always sits in the base notes. It helps the heart notes last and leaves a warm skin-like finish. How long a perfume lasts still varies with your skin, the weather and the concentration. The musky scent of ambrette comes from ambrettolide and related compounds, even though they make up only a small part of the oil.
Common partners are iris, rose and pear, plus sandalwood and synthetic musks that extend its clean feel.
When to wear ambrette
Ambrette feels soft and close to the skin, so it suits work, everyday wear and hot weather. A perfume with ambrette rarely feels sharp, which makes it comfortable indoors. For the evening, ambrette with iris or sandalwood feels warmer.
