Fresh · Natural material · Top notes, Heart notes
Coriander
Coriander is a fragrant oil distilled from the seeds of Coriandrum sativum, the same spice you find in the kitchen. It smells lightly peppery, like white pepper, with a citrus edge and a hint of flowers. Perfumers usually place coriander in the heart notes, where it links the opening to florals or woods.
· Written by the FRAG team
What does coriander smell like in perfume?
Coriander in perfume is gentler than freshly toasted coriander seeds. It opens dry and peppery, like white pepper over lemon zest. After a while, coriander softens into something slightly sweet and powdery, with a faint woody trace. The scent stays clean, so it rarely reads as cooking spice.
Perfumers use the seeds. Fresh coriander leaves, or cilantro, have a sharp green and slightly soapy smell, and that leafy character is absent from coriander seed oil.
Where does coriander oil come from?
Coriander is the plant Coriandrum sativum, a relative of celery and carrot. Its oil is steam distilled from dried seeds that are crushed just before distillation. About two thirds of coriander seed oil is linalool, a molecule also found in lavender, which is why coriander blends so easily with florals.
In Indonesia, coriander is known as ketumbar and goes into everyday dishes like opor and soto. Coriander oil for perfumery is produced in Egypt, India, Russia and Morocco, among other places.
Coriander as a bridge in the heart notes
Coriander usually sits in the heart notes and is sometimes noticeable from the opening. It mostly works as a connector. Coriander smooths the move from citrus to florals and adds a dry spice that keeps the perfume from feeling heavy.
Coriander works with bergamot and neroli at the top, rose and lavender in the middle, and cardamom or black pepper for more spice. Coriander appears often in fresh, aromatic and chypre perfumes.
When to wear a perfume with coriander
Because its spice is light and unsweet, a perfume with coriander feels comfortable in hot weather. Blends that pair coriander with citrus suit work and daytime. When coriander meets rose or woods, it turns warmer and fits late afternoon or evening.
