Citrus · Natural material · Top notes
Chinotto
Chinotto is the small fruit of Citrus myrtifolia, a tree with dense, myrtle-like leaves grown mainly in Liguria, Italy. It smells like bitter, dry citrus peel, darker than sweet orange or bergamot. In perfume, chinotto is used in the top notes for a citrus opening that is not sweet.
· Written by the FRAG team
What does chinotto smell like?
Chinotto smells bitter, dry and sharp, like citrus peel that has been slightly scorched. Compared with bergamot, chinotto is drier and darker. Compared with sweet orange, it has far less juiciness, so it reads as firmer and more serious.
Once the sharp opening settles, chinotto leaves a soft floral side and a dry, woody trace. Like other citrus, chinotto evaporates fairly quickly, so you notice it most at the start.
Where does chinotto come from?
Chinotto is a small, thorny citrus tree with dense leaves like myrtle, which is why it is also called the myrtle-leaved orange. In Italy it grows mainly in Liguria around Savona, and also in Tuscany, Sicily and Calabria. The tree is also found in Malta, Libya and the south of France.
Chinotto fruit tastes bitter, so it is usually turned into candied fruit, jam, syrup and bitter soft drinks. In Italy, the name chinotto is also used for that soda. For perfume, chinotto oil is generally pressed from the peel.
Chinotto in a perfume
Chinotto is used in the top notes, often with lemon, bergamot or bitter orange. It makes a citrus opening sharper and more grown-up, far from the feel of sweet orange juice. Chinotto rarely appears on note lists, so it often gives a perfume a distinctive edge.
Good partners for chinotto are herbs such as rosemary, then dry woods such as vetiver in the base. Together they give a bitter, fresh start and a dry finish. Chinotto itself fades quickly, so the dry finish comes mostly from the woods in the base.
When to wear a perfume with chinotto
Because it is bitter and not sweet, chinotto is comfortable in hot weather and during the day. A chinotto opening suits work or casual plans, and fits anyone looking for a firmer kind of citrus. Paired with woods or spice, chinotto also works in the late afternoon.
