Woody · Natural material · Top notes, Heart notes, Base notes
Vetiver
Vetiver is a fragrant oil from the roots of the grass Chrysopogon zizanioides, known in Indonesia as akar wangi. It smells like dry wood and damp earth, with a touch of smoke. In perfume, vetiver usually sits in the base notes, so it comes through once the opening fades.
· Written by the FRAG team
What does vetiver smell like?
Vetiver smells like soil after rain mixed with dry wood. There is a smoky side, a slight bitterness, and sometimes a hint of roasted nuts. On skin, vetiver feels clean and unsweet, which is why people who avoid sweet perfumes often like it.
The character of vetiver depends on where the roots grow. Vetiver from Java tends to be smokier and denser, while vetiver from Haiti is smoother. Inside a perfume, these differences are usually softened by the other materials.
Where does vetiver come from?
Vetiver is a tropical grass with long, dense roots. Its oil is distilled from the dried roots, and the distillation can take a long time because the roots are tough. Haiti, Indonesia and India are among the main producers.
In Indonesia, the centre of vetiver growing is Garut in West Java, where the oil has long been sold to perfume makers abroad. For FRAG, which is based in Garut, vetiver is a material grown close to home.
Vetiver in perfume
Vetiver almost always sits in the base notes. Because it evaporates slowly, it helps the other notes stay on skin and gives the dry-down a neat, dry finish. How long a perfume lasts still varies with your skin, the weather and the concentration.
Vetiver often pairs with citrus such as grapefruit and bergamot in the opening, then with cedar, patchouli or iris. You find it in many woody and fresh perfumes, and in unisex blends.
When to wear a vetiver perfume
Because it is not sweet, vetiver is comfortable in hot, humid weather. A vetiver perfume with citrus suits work and daytime. When vetiver meets woods and spices, it turns warmer and fits the evening.
