Gourmand · Aroma molecule · Top notes, Heart notes
Bitter almond
Bitter almond is a perfume note that smells like bitter almond, marzipan and cherry, and it comes mainly from a molecule called benzaldehyde. It smells sweet and sharp at first, then soft like almond pastry. In perfume, bitter almond usually sits in the top or heart and is common in gourmand blends with vanilla, tonka and cherry.
· Written by the FRAG team
What does bitter almond smell like?
Bitter almond opens sharp, sweet and slightly bitter, like cherry pits or almond extract for baking. As it thins out on skin, bitter almond turns rounder and softer, like marzipan or almond cookies. This is different from roasted almonds, which smell nutty and savoury.
On note lists, bitter almond sometimes appears as amaretto. Amaretto is an accord that imitates the Italian almond liqueur, so it is also built around almond but feels sweeter and warmer, sometimes with a caramel side.
Where does the bitter almond scent come from?
The scent of bitter almond comes mainly from benzaldehyde. This molecule forms naturally in bitter almonds, apricot kernels and cherry pits, and refined bitter almond oil is almost entirely benzaldehyde. Sweet almond oil, by contrast, has almost no smell.
Today nearly all benzaldehyde used in perfume is made synthetically. It is chemically identical to the natural material and smells just as good, so natural bitter almond oil is rarely used. Benzaldehyde is also the flavouring behind almond and cherry flavoured foods.
The role of bitter almond in perfume
Bitter almond generally appears in the top or heart. Right after spraying, benzaldehyde is sharp and instantly recognisable, then fades into a sweet almond effect. The note brings a pastry and stone-fruit feel to a blend, and often bridges fruit at the top with vanilla in the base.
In a blend, bitter almond usually keeps company with cherry, heliotrope, tonka bean, vanilla, caramel and coffee. Heliotrope and tonka have almond facets of their own, so they blend smoothly. Bitter almond appears most often in sweet gourmand and amber perfumes.
When to wear a bitter almond perfume
A bitter almond perfume feels sweet and warm, so it fits late afternoons, evenings and air-conditioned rooms. On a hot day, almond blends with musk or white flowers feel lighter than those with caramel and vanilla.
