Fresh · Natural material · Top notes, Base notes
Artemisia
Artemisia is the herbal scent of plants in the genus Artemisia, mainly wormwood (Artemisia absinthium), known as an ingredient of absinthe. It smells green, bitter and sharp like camphor, with a slight anise-like sweetness. In perfume, artemisia usually sits in the top notes and gives a fresh, herbal opening.
· Written by the FRAG team
What does artemisia smell like?
Artemisia smells sharp, bitter and green, like crushed leaves with a hint of camphor. Once that sharpness settles, a dry, woody side appears with a little sweetness like anise or liquorice. Its bitterness makes artemisia feel cool and tidy.
On skin, artemisia is clearest at the start. It then blends into the lavender, woods or moss beneath and leaves a dry herbal trace.
Where artemisia comes from
Artemisia is a large genus in the daisy family (Asteraceae) with almost 500 species, including wormwood, mugwort, tarragon and sagebrush. In perfume, the name artemisia almost always means wormwood (Artemisia absinthium), the plant also used in absinthe and, originally, in vermouth.
Artemisia oil is steam-distilled from the flowering plant. Producers include Morocco, southern France, Spain and Croatia. In Indonesia, its relative Artemisia vulgaris is known as baru cina or hia, a plant with sharp-smelling leaves.
Artemisia in a perfume
Artemisia usually sits in the top notes. Perfumers use it in small amounts because it is strong: too little disappears, too much makes a perfume smell harsh. Artemisia adds a bitter green edge that makes a perfume feel sharper and more grown-up.
Classic partners are lavender in fougère perfumes, plus sage, rosemary and black pepper. Artemisia also sharpens citrus openings such as bergamot, and it suits oakmoss in chypre perfumes.
When to wear artemisia
Artemisia feels dry and unsweet, so it works well on a hot day at the office. Because it is bitter and sharp, artemisia is easiest to enjoy in a perfume that opens with citrus, where the bitterness reads as fresh. Versions with woods, leather or amber are warmer and suit the evening.
