Fresh · Accord · Top notes
Rhubarb
Rhubarb is a perfume accord that recreates the smell of rhubarb stalks, a red-stemmed plant from cool climates. It smells tart, green and lightly fruity, with a slightly sharp edge. Perfumers use rhubarb in the top notes to give the opening a bright lift.
· Written by the FRAG team
What does rhubarb smell like?
Rhubarb smells like biting into a raw, sour, juicy stalk. There is a sappy green note, a tartness like grapefruit but drier, and a hint of red fruit. Sometimes there is a faint metallic edge too, which makes it feel crisp.
Over time, rhubarb softens into a gentle, slightly waxy green. Because it is sharp at first, perfumers usually use only a little rhubarb to add freshness.
How perfumers build a rhubarb note
Rhubarb (Rheum rhabarbarum) is a plant whose stalks are cooked into jam and pies in Europe. It yields no oil or absolute that perfumers can use, because the scent molecules in the stalk break down during extraction.
So perfumers build rhubarb from synthetic molecules. The base is usually styrallyl acetate for the tart, green effect, plus specialised molecules such as Rhubofix from dsm-firmenich. If you have never smelled rhubarb, think of a mix of grapefruit, green apple and a freshly cut plant stem.
Rhubarb in a fresh opening
Rhubarb almost always sits in the top notes. It lifts the opening with a fresh, slightly sharp feel and balances sweet flowers or fruit. Because it sits at the top, rhubarb evaporates faster than the base notes.
Common partners are grapefruit and apple at the top, rose and peony in the heart, and red fruits such as blackcurrant. Rhubarb also pairs with pink pepper for a fresh, spicy opening.
When to wear a rhubarb perfume
A perfume with rhubarb suits daytime and hot weather, since its opening is tart, fresh and light. For work or casual plans, rhubarb with flowers and musk feels neat. With woods or amber in the base, a rhubarb perfume also works in the late afternoon.
